Sunday, March 20, 2011

EXPLORING POSITANO, ITALY

"Positano bites deep, it is a dream place that isn't quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you havea gone." - John Steinbeck, Harper's Bazaar, 1953

Positano is a small town in Campania, Italy. The main part of the city sits in an enclave in the hills leading down to the coast, one of it's key features in attracting tourists from all over the world. After a full day of travelling I believe Positano will be the perfect place to call "home base" for the vacation. Conveniently located right on the sea, I will be able to explore the other islands and towns along the Amalfi coast via boat ride. This section will highlight my dream accommodation and local dining I have planned through my prior research of the the region.

Accomodations: Le Sirenuse - Albergo di Positano
This exquisite, in-town 18th-century palazzo is where John Steinbeck stayed while writing his famous essay, "Positano" for Harper's Bazaar in 1953. Le Sirenuse features Venetian and Neapolitan museum-quality antiques and artwork, spacious vine-entwined terraces, and a private yacht for free boating excursions. The private yacht will avoid delays in infrastructure as I am free to explore the Amalfi coast at my own will.

 The palazzo has plenty of history as well. Le Sirenuse opened in 1951, when the Machesi Sersale brothers turned their summer house into a charming hotel, overlooking the bay of Positano. Today Le Sirenuse has 63 rooms furnished with all the comforts of a luxury hotel, while maintaining the atmosphere of a private Neapolitan home. Le Sirenuse is no Best Western, and it's price per night reflects that. We are all allowed to dream though.


Rooms/Facilities: 
My dream vacation would have me booked for seven nights at the Le Sirenuse. I would reserve a room that looked over the bay of Positano with a private terrace or balcony. This beautiful view of the sea and mountain has been used in all forms of art in popular culture. By travelling during the "high season" (May-October) the rates are more expensive opposed to the low season. A standard sea-view rate is 800 euros a night. That obviously includes breakfast. Located 250 steps from the beach seaports it is a perfectly convenient location.

Restaurants:
From the research and reviews I've compiled about Positano there is a general consensus to stay away from the restaurants near the beach. These are said to be expensive tourist traps and don't feature authentic Italian meals. Restaurants near the top of the hill are said to be the local family run restaurants that resemble my nona's kitchen. It is here where one may find the native food. Positano's food offerings consist of fresh fish and meats, influenced by the ocean and local farming. The seafood is caught fresh daily guaranteeing the most exquisite authentic pasta dishes one could dream of.

Ristorante Saraceno d'Oro: This is the first restaurant I plan on visiting. Located 400 meters above sea level it has an incredible view of the Amalfi Coast. Their Local specialty is appealing to me - spaghetti and clams. 

La Tagliata: Highly recommended, this restaurant is a 5 minute shuttle ride away from the hotel. Featuring all homemade food from scratch it is impossible to go wrong. With a set four course the meal is already set eliminated any translation confusions a menu may provide. With a variety of dishes to accompany each course it is the typical Amalfi restaurant. 


Above: An empty La Tagliata.

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