TRAVEL PLAN

"Traveling is the ruin of all happiness! There's no looking at a building after seeing Italy." --Fanny Burney

There is said to be nowhere as beautiful as the coast of Italy. While many tourists flood to the historical sites in Rome, Venice and Florence my dream vacation is to travel to the Amalfi coast. Departing from Toronto (YYZ) six hours ago I am due to land in Rome (ROM) within the hour. After claiming my bags I will get on a local shuttle that will take me to the Rome train station located downtown. Trains run to the Naples Central Station almost every forty five minutes so if I happen to run into any delays I will be safe. I have been warned to watch all my belongings on the train as it is flooded with local gypsies. Naples is known for it's thieves and ties with the Mafia. After an hour boat ride from the Naples Central station (55 km) I am due to arrive along the Amalfi Coast in Campania, Italy where Positano and Capri are located. My main purpose for this trip is leisure and relaxation similar to the  rich and famous Europeans who flock to the coast in search of sun and romance.

Above: I will experience Naples, Positano, Capri, and Pompeii on my dream vacation.

MY DREAM VACATION: POSITANO

Being second generation Italian, it is my dream to see all of Italy. In the past I have travelled to Rome, Venice, Florence, and Tuscany. My father was born in Sorrento, a little town in Naples that I've always dreamed of seeing. He told me the area has changed a great deal over the last fifty years. Positano was a relatively poor fishing village during the first half of the 20th century. It began to attract large numbers of tourists in the 1950s. For as long as I can remember, my relatives on my father's side have raved over how breathtaking Positano and the entire Amalfi coast is. I am excited to visit both Positano, Capri and the many beautiful islands that are located off the Sorrentine Penninsula.

The Southern coast of Italy to be, embodies every facet of a worthy vacation locale. History, culture, relaxation, night life, breathtaking scenery, the Mediterranean Sea, and best of all - local Italian women. These are a few factors that contributed to me planning a trip to Italy's Amalfi Coast, more specifically Positano and Capri, my dream destinations.

This blog is a guide to my dream vacation. It will give you a glimpse into what I believe is the perfect vacation.

Above: A view of Positano's hillside. 

EXPLORING POSITANO, ITALY

"Positano bites deep, it is a dream place that isn't quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you havea gone." - John Steinbeck, Harper's Bazaar, 1953

Positano is a small town in Campania, Italy. The main part of the city sits in an enclave in the hills leading down to the coast, one of it's key features in attracting tourists from all over the world. After a full day of travelling I believe Positano will be the perfect place to call "home base" for the vacation. Conveniently located right on the sea, I will be able to explore the other islands and towns along the Amalfi coast via boat ride. This section will highlight my dream accommodation and local dining I have planned through my prior research of the the region.

Accomodations: Le Sirenuse - Albergo di Positano
This exquisite, in-town 18th-century palazzo is where John Steinbeck stayed while writing his famous essay, "Positano" for Harper's Bazaar in 1953. Le Sirenuse features Venetian and Neapolitan museum-quality antiques and artwork, spacious vine-entwined terraces, and a private yacht for free boating excursions. The private yacht will avoid delays in infrastructure as I am free to explore the Amalfi coast at my own will.

 The palazzo has plenty of history as well. Le Sirenuse opened in 1951, when the Machesi Sersale brothers turned their summer house into a charming hotel, overlooking the bay of Positano. Today Le Sirenuse has 63 rooms furnished with all the comforts of a luxury hotel, while maintaining the atmosphere of a private Neapolitan home. Le Sirenuse is no Best Western, and it's price per night reflects that. We are all allowed to dream though.

Rooms/Facilities: 

My dream vacation would have me booked for seven nights at the Le Sirenuse. I would reserve a room that looked over the bay of Positano with a private terrace or balcony. This beautiful view of the sea and mountain has been used in all forms of art in popular culture. By travelling during the "high season" (May-October) the rates are more expensive opposed to the low season. A standard sea-view rate is 800 euros a night. That obviously includes breakfast. Located 250 steps from the beach seaports it is a perfectly convenient location.

Restaurants:

From the research and reviews I've compiled about Positano there is a general consensus to stay away from the restaurants near the beach. These are said to be expensive tourist traps and don't feature authentic Italian meals. Restaurants near the top of the hill are said to be the local family run restaurants that resemble my nona's kitchen. It is here where one may find the native food. Positano's food offerings consist of fresh fish and meats, influenced by the ocean and local farming. The seafood is caught fresh daily guaranteeing the most exquisite authentic pasta dishes one could dream of.

Ristorante Saraceno d'Oro: This is the first restaurant I plan on visiting. Located 400 meters above sea level it has an incredible view of the Amalfi Coast. Their Local specialty is appealing to me - spaghetti and clams. 

La Tagliata: Highly recommended, this restaurant is a 5 minute shuttle ride away from the hotel. Featuring all homemade food from scratch it is impossible to go wrong. With a set four course the meal is already set eliminated any translation confusions a menu may provide. With a variety of dishes to accompany each course it is the typical Amalfi restaurant. 

Above: An empty La Tagliata.

ACTIVITIES IN POSITANO

WHAT TO DO?

Positano's unique hillside location on the coast defines it as a leisure destination for one seeking modern relaxation. Positano is a destination that provides natural treasures that are not available anywhere else in the world. These treasures are not made my man and are entrenched in Italy's history. In order to enjoy them one must visit the Amalfi Coast and experience them first hand. The activities I have planned I wouldn't consider to be the average tour of historical landmarks one may experience in Rome, Venice, or Florence. Instead I would define them as witnessing the beauties of the earth in one the most picturesque towns along the side of Italy.

1. The Beaches:

The beaches in Positano are an attraction on their own. The beaches in Positano are full of gray sand and volcancic rock that stretch far along the coast. No beach in the Caribbean can provide the view one may witness out at sea gazing up the hillside. My accommodation at Le Sirenuse provides a private beach area siutated on the rocks with lounges I plan on enjoying everyday. Here I will indulge in the finest daily breakfast specials starting the day off right. If I want to meet other tourists closer to my age that are not on a "dream vacation"I can always rent a chair and umbrella in the public beach area. The central Spiaggia Grande which is the boutique of shops, wine bars, and restaurtants is also situated along the beach appealing to the visiting crowd.

2. La Grotto dello Smeraldo:

I'd plan to visit the Grotto dello Smeraldo on day two of my vacation. Located on the outskirts of Conca de Marini, the Grotto dello Smeraldo is a much-touted stop for daytippers like myself. The natural grotto is called the "emerald" because the sun comes in through a tunnel under the water, making the water an emerald colour.  I plan on arriving at the caves by boat at noon to 3 PM as that is when the light is said to be best. Also at this time other "tourists" will be busy tucking into their pasta elsewhere. Although I must travel by water to reach the grotto, the Amalfi seaport makes the caves very accessible with boats heading their on the hour.

3. Music on the Rocks:

Music on the Rocks is a lounge/disco club set in a seaside cave off the Spaggia Grande beach. Celebrities such as Leonardo di Caprio, Kate Moss, and Denzel Washington claim Music on the Rocks to be their favourite nightclub on the planet. I plan on spending every night meeting new people at this club experiencing the region's best DJs. The crowd is said to be in my age range and would be a great hangout to meet people and seek new destinations and daytrips. I have to be careful not to get too inebriated on the local Limoncello as the 250 step walk back to my palazzo may be rather treacherous. Even the nightclubs in Positano manage to be one of a kind attractions.

4. Hiking

Hiking the "Senteiro degli Dei" (Path of the Gods) which starts in the small hamlet of Nocelle 1,500 feet above the coastline and descends 1,700 steps to the town and beach below. Just getting around Positano provides great exercise.

Above: The typical steps you have to hike to get around the hillside.
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MY FOUR DAYS OF POSITANO COOKING CLASSES

The Italian cuisine is sought after around the world for it's recipes of veal, chicken, fish, as well as the country cooking of seasonal vegetables and unlimited pasta dishes. It is a trait that reminds me of my Nona as she spent half her life living in Italy. With my Nona living in a nursing home their is no better way to learning this trait then registering in Diana Folonari's "The Divine Kitchen Cooking School" a four day cooking class in Positano. Starting at 1,500 euros it is expensive but is the only authentic setting to learn how to create delicious dishes of the local Italian cuisine. Mastering the secrets of Italian herbs, oils, condiments, and seasoning I will be able to spoil my friends and family back home bringing them a little taste of the Amalfi coast.


These cooking classes will keep me busy 9:00 AM until noon on the days I choose. This convenience reflects the leniency of my trip and the european lifestyle.

Above: Diana Folonari one of the most famous families in Italy presents Italian Country Cooking lessons in her cliffside home in Positano, Italy.

CAPRI: THE MAGICAL ISLAND

After enjoying all the festivities of Positano I would plan a day trip to the magical island Capri. My palazzo Le Sirenuse would make this very convenient providing optimal service with private yachts to travel to and from the island according to my schedule. It is about a 30 minute boat ride (11 miles). Located in the Campania region it has a population of 12,200. With all the top designer stores in the area of Piazza Vittorio I would freshen up on my shopping here. Hopefully finding some new overpriced outfits by the top Italian designers to wear to Music on the Rocks that night. Travelling with first class privileges guarantees me to not be stranded on the island due to delays in local infrastructure. The hired yacht will provide tours of the natural historical sights out at sea surrounding Capri. This reflects the spontaneity of my dream vacation where I am free to explore at my own will. This differs from a Disney Cruise where the travellers are confined to the boat and captain. The adventure to Capri will be pleasant if the sea is not rough.  


Monte Solaro:


I plan on riding the chairlift from sea level to the top of Monte Solaro, the highest point in Capri. Here I'd come upon views of all the island's cliffs and surrounding sea. The chairlift ride up would also provide a splendid view of Anacapri and the Gulf of Naples. I plan on enjoying a drink at one of the solariums up here and visiting the remains of the Fortino di Bruto: A blockhouse built in the early 19th century during the battles between England and France. 

Above: Miltary remains at the Fortino di Bruto.

Villa Jovis:

Located on the main island of Capri it is the largest and best preserved of the island's Roman villas. Not much is left of the miniature town but I still feel it would be fascinating to see where the Roman Empire once ruled from. 

Above: A bird's eye view of the remnants of the Villa Jovis.

The Faraglioni:

The Faraglioni are three blocks of rock which stick out 100 metres from the water. It is characterized by a cavaity, a natural tunnel which has become famous throughout the world.

Above: A  view of the Faraglioni rock's from sea.

After a day spent at Capri I would head back to Positano and prepare for my last full day. Saving the best for last, the preserved city of Pompei. 

EXPLORING POMPEII AND MOUNT VESUVIUS

After spending most of my days relaxing and observing the natural beauty the Amalfi coast has to offer I would book a car service with a driver through Le Sirenuse for a daytrip to Pompei. Pompei is currently a city with a population of 25,671. It is most famous for Ancient Pompeii, a partially buried Roman city. Pompeii was destroyed and completely buried during a long catastrophobic eruption of the volcano Mount Vesuvius. The eruption buried Pompeii under 4 to 6 metures of ash and it was lost for 1,500 years before it's accidental rediscovery in 1599. This site would be a great way to finish off my trip as it would provide an extraordinarily detailed insight into the life of a city at the height of the Roman Empire. I would book the english "Grand Tour" for the day so I could learn everything about the excavated city.

Above: The excavated site of Ancient Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius.



Mount Vesuvius:

After my days spent hiking up the stairs of the hillside at Positano I figure I should be in fine shape to hike up Mount Vesuvius. No tour guide is needed for the hike as the trail is said to be marked extremely well. At the top you get a great view of the cities in the surrounding area, as well as the Bay of Naples. You are also able to walk a good ways around the opening of the volcano. The history of the volcano with the opportunity to look inside it makes it worth it for the 5 euros it costs.

Above: The pathway I'd have to hike up to reach the mouth of Mount Vesuvius.
After my day at Pompeii is complete I'd meet up with the car service to head back to Positano to get my bags packed and ready to catch my ferry early the next morning to Naples Central Station. Not only will I be travelling with souvenirs material goods only available in the Amalfi Coast, but also a knowledge of where my family came from.

HEADING HOME

In the boat heading to Naples Central Station I would get one last look at the hillside view of Positano from sea that would be engrained in my mind forever. From here I would get back on a train that would take me back to Rome where I would cab to the Airport I flew into just over a week ago. From here I would begin my journey back to Canada to tell my Italian relatives all about my vacation, cook them an Amalfi style dish, and be able to embrace my families heritage better than before my departure. 

Above: An image of Positano from sea.

In the end, I would consider my dream vacation to cover every aspect of what I believe is a perfect vacation. The ultimate relaxation in luxury while experiencing and learning firsthand the local lifestyle of my ancestors. With rough and tough hiking while experiencing beautiful natural sights it would come as no surprise to why the Amalfi coast is claimed to be one of the most magical places in the world.